How to engrave on stainless steel with the Gravograph IS400

he wants to know I engraved stainlesssteel in the old name plates he wouldlove some tips and suggestions on thatapplication because he's rather new aswell well tips and tricks really comedown since you didn't really specifywhat you're looking for as far asapplication wise I'm assuming you'retalking about quality and quality ofstainless steel is dependent not only onthe depth the way you said itbut what product you were using to getthat actual engraving done we have manydifferent kinds of cutters and they'llhave different purposes now for examplehere is a half roundit's basically an inverted triangle yougot to get your little pyramid here andthis is a quarter round as you can seeit's only a quarter of the shaft that'swhy it's called a quarter round and thenthis is half his half of its cut out allright so again we've got our nicequarter round here that looks almostlike a miniature show that's what I callit in our a frowns this large invertedpyramid alright so a lot of people dothe half rounds because they're cheaperthere are typically twenty to thirtydollars cheaper so they do the halfwrong because they see the cheaper sideof obviously the application the problemwith that is these half rounds if youare engraving 440 stainless steel orthick stainless steel again I don't knowthe very specific specifications of whatyou're engraving on but the thicker youneed to go on this steel the fasterthese half rounds were out and thesewill actually have half or less of thelife of quarter round and the reason whyis the quarter round itselfdesigned for very heavy thick cutting soeven if you're doing something lighterlike still steel but not stainless steelyou can still use the quarter of you'rejust going to need to be more careful onhow you set your depth because thequarter round will tear up your materialif you don't have the depth setcorrectly but this will bring out a verybeautiful engraving just as much as thisthey both will do the same thing it'sall about the setup itself and you knowwe already touched on the setting of thedepth so you know you guys can do thedepth the same way with steel and you'regonna come out with the same outcome theonly problem with stainless steel iseven though I don't know anyone outthere that wants to go deep intostainless steel you do not want to gotoo deep too fast you will ruin yourcutter so it was true stainless steeldepending on how deep you want to goyou're going to want three or fourpasses to get to the depth that you needto do and that's gonna save your cutterit might take you a couple more minutesor 10 to 15 minutes but you will saveyour cutters and your material becauseyou're going to get beautiful outlinesone of the things that not only do weget with calls about the shadowing issuebut we get the outside edges of myengraving look like a child trying tocolor in a coloring book what that comesfrom is going too deep too fast also thedepth it's too deep already at the verybeginning the set up as well so you'reeither trying to make it go too deep toofast or the setup is wrong already thoseare the two main issues of how you getlittle tiny squiggly childlike coloringon the outside of your letters or yourimages that's what the issue is if it'snot the setup and you know that you'vedone it perfectly then your colors backthe dollar this is the deeper it has togo to achieve the same debt so as itgoes deeper it gets wider so instead ofgetting nice beautiful thin perfectcrisp lines you've got this very broadhalf round or quarter round going inthereto cut a very thin line which it can'tso you know for Andrew if you've got avery specific set up again that you'relooking for that you want the best typeof engraving you can go ahead and emailus or just call in and I can give youthe best setup for how your nameplate isthe thickness I'll need to know thethickness the size what kind of machineyou have and we can go from there